| Author |
Message |
Ben
Guest
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 Posted:
Tue Nov 08, 2005 5:08 am Post subject:
Ripped voice coil wire |
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I have an 18" driver (JBL 2241G)with a ripped voice coil wire. It's
ripped right in the center...
My question is, can I just solder this back together? The driver seems
to be ok. No scraping. And it moves smoothly both forward and back
with 3 volts applied either way...
Obviously I would like to avoid paying for a recone if I can.. but I
want the speaker to work correctly also...
Advice?
Thanks
-Ben
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Rupert
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Nov 08, 2005 5:08 am Post subject:
Re: Ripped voice coil wire |
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If you're talking about the tinsel leads, chances are it won't hold up
to a solder repair. The lead will likely break again at the solder
point from flexing. The solder's realitively high density will cause
the wire braid to flex against it's inertia which will result in
another failure. You may be able to avoid a full recone by getting the
tinsel leads replaced, but it has to be done by someone with
experience. The solder joint of the tinsel lead to the VC wire is
tricky, and it is very easy to damage the cone where the tinsel and VC
coil wire meet.
Rupert
Ben wrote:
| Quote: | I have an 18" driver (JBL 2241G)with a ripped voice coil wire. It's
ripped right in the center...
My question is, can I just solder this back together? The driver seems
to be ok. No scraping. And it moves smoothly both forward and back
with 3 volts applied either way...
Obviously I would like to avoid paying for a recone if I can.. but I
want the speaker to work correctly also...
Advice?
Thanks
-Ben |
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| Back to top |
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Phil Allison
Guest
|
| Posted:
Tue Nov 08, 2005 5:08 am Post subject:
Re: Ripped voice coil wire |
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"Ben"
| Quote: |
I have an 18" driver (JBL 2241G)with a ripped voice coil wire. It's ripped
right in the center...
My question is, can I just solder this back together? The driver seems to
be ok. No scraping. And it moves smoothly both forward and back with 3
volts applied either way...
Obviously I would like to avoid paying for a recone if I can.. but I want
the speaker to work correctly also...
|
** If you can tidy up the frayed ends, solder neatly and the lead is not too
short - give it a go.
However, it is best to replace the whole lead with a new one.
When disposing of burnt out speakers I remove the feed wires and keep them
for doing such repairs.
........... Phil |
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gshadoan@comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Nov 08, 2005 5:08 am Post subject:
Re: Ripped voice coil wire |
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Yea you can, just make sure there is enough wire for maximum excursion,
and always keep track od that one, so youll know where it is :-) when
you have to repair it again. |
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Chad Wahls
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:20 pm Post subject:
Re: Ripped voice coil wire |
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"Rupert" <foodsteaks@linkline.com> wrote in message
news:1131395773.710396.96290@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
| Quote: | If you're talking about the tinsel leads, chances are it won't hold up
to a solder repair. The lead will likely break again at the solder
point from flexing. The solder's realitively high density will cause
the wire braid to flex against it's inertia which will result in
another failure. You may be able to avoid a full recone by getting the
tinsel leads replaced, but it has to be done by someone with
experience. The solder joint of the tinsel lead to the VC wire is
tricky, and it is very easy to damage the cone where the tinsel and VC
coil wire meet.
Rupert
Ben wrote:
I have an 18" driver (JBL 2241G)with a ripped voice coil wire. It's
ripped right in the center...
My question is, can I just solder this back together? The driver seems
to be ok. No scraping. And it moves smoothly both forward and back
with 3 volts applied either way...
Obviously I would like to avoid paying for a recone if I can.. but I
want the speaker to work correctly also...
Advice?
Thanks
-Ben
|
Top Poster :)
I used to re-lead 2241's all the time, it really sucks as the dust dome
covers the lead entry point. it will need to be removed, be patient and use
MEK. You should also use a special solder that doesn't wick into the lead
as bad. JBL sells it, I can't remember what it is. Be careful with it and
use proper ventilation, it is like pepper mace and the smoke burns the hell
out of your eyes when it melts!
I have always been disappointed with the entry point on the 2241's, it is
too low and even with a proper recone they will touch and blow themselves in
half... Amps don't like it much either. I had a customer who was doing this
often, I would actually take the black bostik they (jbl) sells and glue the
leads up the cone in the rear and make a closer exit point. This would
allow for full excursion and then some, the leads would never touch. I
contacted JBL about this procedure as it has now been years since a failure
that used to happen in weeks. Uh, Don't do that..... JBL was VERY upset
with me. It was a very bad situation that I won't elaborate on, but
although I still use JBL products, I was a quite miffed from the experience
for a long time. Still bugs me that they think their shit don't stink and
when someone comes up with a better way to protect their product and
reputation they attempt to punish them. They are rough on the end-customer!
Oh well good luck, there are JBL recone shops that WILL do this for you,
even though they will try to sell you a recone first. What was it in, a
SR4718 or SR4738? Homebrew cab?
Chad |
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Ben
Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:02 am Post subject:
Re: Ripped voice coil wire |
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Chad Wahls wrote:
| Quote: | "Rupert" <foodsteaks@linkline.com> wrote in message
news:1131395773.710396.96290@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
If you're talking about the tinsel leads, chances are it won't hold up
to a solder repair. The lead will likely break again at the solder
point from flexing. The solder's realitively high density will cause
the wire braid to flex against it's inertia which will result in
another failure. You may be able to avoid a full recone by getting the
tinsel leads replaced, but it has to be done by someone with
experience. The solder joint of the tinsel lead to the VC wire is
tricky, and it is very easy to damage the cone where the tinsel and VC
coil wire meet.
Rupert
Ben wrote:
I have an 18" driver (JBL 2241G)with a ripped voice coil wire. It's
ripped right in the center...
My question is, can I just solder this back together? The driver seems
to be ok. No scraping. And it moves smoothly both forward and back
with 3 volts applied either way...
Obviously I would like to avoid paying for a recone if I can.. but I
want the speaker to work correctly also...
Advice?
Thanks
-Ben
Top Poster :)
I used to re-lead 2241's all the time, it really sucks as the dust dome
covers the lead entry point. it will need to be removed, be patient and use
MEK. You should also use a special solder that doesn't wick into the lead
as bad. JBL sells it, I can't remember what it is. Be careful with it and
use proper ventilation, it is like pepper mace and the smoke burns the hell
out of your eyes when it melts!
I have always been disappointed with the entry point on the 2241's, it is
too low and even with a proper recone they will touch and blow themselves in
half... Amps don't like it much either. I had a customer who was doing this
often, I would actually take the black bostik they (jbl) sells and glue the
leads up the cone in the rear and make a closer exit point. This would
allow for full excursion and then some, the leads would never touch. I
contacted JBL about this procedure as it has now been years since a failure
that used to happen in weeks. Uh, Don't do that..... JBL was VERY upset
with me. It was a very bad situation that I won't elaborate on, but
although I still use JBL products, I was a quite miffed from the experience
for a long time. Still bugs me that they think their shit don't stink and
when someone comes up with a better way to protect their product and
reputation they attempt to punish them. They are rough on the end-customer!
Oh well good luck, there are JBL recone shops that WILL do this for you,
even though they will try to sell you a recone first. What was it in, a
SR4718 or SR4738? Homebrew cab?
Chad
|
Thanks to everyone for your advice.
It was in an SR4718X.
Ahh so the wires touch? That makes sense.
I think I will just bite the bullet this time and pay for repair.. as
although I can get all the things you suggest, I don't have them.. and I
need to get it going again... I'll let a repair shop do it this time.
Meanwhile I have another cabinet that died on the same event and when I
took the driver out it was FINE. Amp fine (been used for other things
since), cables fine (opened them up to make sure everything is tight).
The last thing I have to check is the connector plate on the back of the
cabinet... Anyway, very perplexing but I won't complain :)
Thanks again
-Ben |
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